![]() ![]() Clad in black shiny panels and white mausoleum marble, with a ceiling almost lost in the clouds, Hutong looks like the inside of Darth Vader’s spaceship.Ĭharcoal banquettes curlicue around the walls and massive, tortuous chandeliers hang from high above. The interior is mainly blackĪpproached through a mid-block alleyway, Hutong consists of an angular barroom on one side approached via a walk-through wine cellar, and a huge rounded dining room with a small alcove on the other, with a greeter’s desk in between. The entrance to Hutong is not well marked. It occupies the former Le Cirque space in the Bloomberg Building on Midtown’s East Side, and if you remember the exhilaratingly yellow and orange décor of the previous occupant, you should dispel those images from your mind before entering. Now appears Hutong, arriving from Hong Kong but with a second location in London, providing an upscale take on what it describes as northern Chinese fare. Meanwhile, Madame Zhu’s Kitchen has established two elegant Hao Noodle locations in Greenwich Village and Chelsea, both emphasizing Sichuan and Shanghai cooking. More recently, Tim Ho Wan generated long lines with its daylong dim sum service, while critically panned duck specialist DaDong suggested that our own Peking ducks may be better than those served in Beijing. In the late 90s we had Dai Jia Lou, a Beijing chain highlighting the food of Yunnan, two decades before the cuisine became popular in the East Village. New York City has had a long history of restaurants sailing in from China and establishing themselves here. ![]()
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